Wine Soliloquy - A Perfect Answer

In the motion picture Sideways, which I sincerely hope you are all familiar with - Paul Giamatti's character asks Virginia Madsen's character why she's so into wine. I am asked this exact question at least twice a week. I've given many answers, none of them ever seemed to really convey exactly how passionate I am about the wonderful juice. I hereby, proudly submit the most perfect reply to that question that I have found to date:

"I think about the life of wine. How it's a living thing. I like to think about what was going on the year the grapes were growing; how the sun was shining; if it rained. I like to think about all the people who tended and picked the grapes. And if it's an old wine, how many of them must be dead by now. I like how wine continues to evolve, like if I opened a bottle of wine today it would taste different than if I'd opened it on any other day, because a bottle of wine is actually alive. And it's constantly evolving and gaining complexity. That is, until it peaks, like your '61. And then it begins its steady, inevitable decline.... And it tastes so f***ing good."

-Virginia Madsen as Maya in "Sideways"

G.

Daily Caffeine Drip (-olator)

The local coffee shop: the place where many people start each day. Sadly, too many of those daily grinders settle for the first stop available, rarely enjoying a quality cup and becoming accustomed to mediocrity. But true coffee lovers expect the real deal: fair trade, organic, locally roasted beans, ground to order and made fresh into that dark, ambrosial liquid we call coffee. Far from the burnt popcorn-tasting, teeth-staining, bitter brew served in truck stops and Starbucks nationwide. In fact, I'm having espresso right now, my fingers involuntarily twitching between keystrokes, heart racing, feeling the buzz - a smile-provoking euphoria I crave.

I have been appreciating and consuming fine coffees for years and years, and believe me I have made my rounds at the local spots. I've tried what various roasters claim to do differently from one another, tasted what each shop thinks is the best source for their beans, and even have experience as a barista, learning from a veteran how to make my own. I've come to the conclusion that it's not alone the type of coffee you buy, which roaster you choose, or what kind of machine you use to make it. It's the right combination thereof and the careful, watchful method in which any good barista takes pride in - that they can so skillfully craft something adored again and again is what makes it all come together.

"So where then!" you ask? It's The Dripolator Coffee Bar that stands out among a sea of competition as the perfect representation of what gourmet coffee culture is all about. If gastronomy is the study of the relationship between food and culture, then I am coining the term espronomy: the study of the relationship and effects of espresso and otherwise produced coffees on the population. Ok so maybe that's not the next definition supplied by Wikipedia, but folks at The Dripolator are cranking out a product that changes the way you look at and feel about coffee.

Located in the brand-new Pioneer Building on Broadway, just behind Greenlife, "The Drip" is a local's spot. The place where Tony Bourdain would be directed to upon rolling into town and asking around for a latte. Recently moving into this location, The Dripolator's owners decided to somewhat expand its offerings by adding local beer and wine to the menu. Featuring Wedge Brewery's Gollum High-Gravity, Payne's Pale Ale, Wit Bier, and I.P.A. In fact, supporting other local businesses is something that they pride themselves in. The pastries and desserts calling to you from their case are made locally, the furniture was made by a local carpenter, the coffee is roasted just across town, even the website was made by a local designer. This, for me, is like the icing on the cake, the perfect design in the frothy foam on my latte. Not only is the coffee here superior to Starbucks, Caribou Coffee and the like, but by supporting this local business, you're actually supporting several other local businesses all at the same time! Not to get off topic here, but that's just good economics.

So next time you decide that a cup of joe is what you chiefly need, make the short trek over to Broadway, pop in and say hello to the friendly locals at The Drip. Trust me, you'll be spoiled on REAL coffee from then on!

G.

Culinaire Menage á Trois

Ahh... mid-summer in the southern Appalachian mountains. If asked about this area most would not likely tell of eclectic wine selections, artisan cheeses, fine gourmet tapas, or handmade french-inspired chocolates. But this is Asheville. A small, metropolitan jewel nestled in the heart of the Blue Ridge that is home to dozens of chef-run restaurants, wine bars, boutiques, and the like. A foodie's paradise, with more tantalizing choices than one could make in an evening, all within walking distance of one another. So, on this venture downtown we were forced, quite literally by hunger and thirst, to pick just a few. Three to be exact, progressing through many courses along the way and ultimately reaching the pinnacle of bliss -- a culinary menage á trois.

It seemed fitting to begin with wine and cheese, and the decision of where to have it was an obvious one: Sante Wine Bar, one of my favorites. With a wine list that changes more often than the seasons, you're almost certain to try something fresh and new each time you visit. So as the overly-warm southern day began to cool and soften into dusk, we prepared our palettes with crisp, dry, refreshing white wine, cheeses, and fresh, ripe, tomato bruschetta -- welcoming the evening with the anticipation of certain greatness. My wine selection, a Grüner Veltliner called Mo Velt, paired beautifully and was simply scrumptious, a perfect summer wine.

After teasing our appetites for over an hour, a unanimous decision propelled us to move on to our next destination and something of a main course: Zambra Tapas and Wine Bar. Tapas, if you've been keeping up with my writing, is something I absolutely love. Careful consideration, attention to detail, and unique flavor combinations are the reasons I enjoy Chef-made cuisine. Give me an opportunity to try three or four different courses, each a taste, a representation of who the chef is, and what he wants to convey through his food- his passion, and I'm in heaven. Pan-roasted, stuffed quail with lentils and romesco, Beef tenderloin with roasted garlic and mojo, Gnocchi with chevre cream sauce, Heirloom tomato napoleon with fresh mozzarella, fresh basil, and aged balsamic reduction- need I go on? A feast for the eyes, appetite, and mind all fit for the likes of a Spanish Conquistador and yet offered to us, and quite graciously received. In this symphony of perfection, one plate stands out above the rest: the quail, in all its tiny glory. When you visit Zambra, it's the quail, among others of course, but the quail you must choose at least once!

Here we sit, our bellies pleasantly full, sipping Spanish Tempranillo and Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, all quite euphoric, lazily laughing at stories being passed around the table. Even still, in this sublime moment there is but one more course whose need has yet to be satisfied: dessert. Rich, dark, captivating chocolate manipulated in ways that one can only imagine. So, as if jolted out of our food-induced hypnosis with the snap of a finger, we set out on an eight block trek towards the French Broad Chocolate Lounge. Here chocolate dreams come true right before your very eyes. There isn't a bad choice to be found in the enormous glass case filled with their handmade truffles. You won't taste a single disappointing cake, pie, or brownie. And you certainly won't be able to leave even a bite of the chocolate crème brûlée once you start eating it. The Chocolate Lounge, my friends takes the cake (pun quite intended!) when arguing over best dessert in Asheville.

So there you have it, we've reached the pinnacle of bliss, the cherry on top of a decidedly delectable dinner excursion- not to mention some very satisfied foodies!

G.

Under the Arbor - A Lesson in Gastronomy

Once again my not-so-distant travels have taken me to the now lush and buzzing Biltmore Estate. I know a hard life indeed. But now that our southern climate’s mild afternoons beckon me out in the sun I have to admit I’ve discovered there’s no better way to enjoy them than at an exclusive tucked-away jewel back at the Winery. They call it Arbor Grill (appropriately named and located adjacent to a sidewalk covered by a vine-growing arbor), a seasonal, outdoor-only concept that provides shady, relaxed dining accompanied by delicious aromas carried by the occasional breeze. Reminding guests of patios they might find in Napa or Miami, Chef Ryan presents this summer’s anticipated menu twist: proudly offering gourmet tapas. Somehow, yet again, the big wigs on the Estate have found a way to meld big city style with sweeping mountain views all without venturing so far that patrons forget who took them there. In fact, if they’re at all like me, they leave reluctantly, wishing they weren’t too full to continue, and quite gracious.

There’s nothing more pleasing to me, as someone who has the utmost respect and appreciation for gourmet food, than when a chef doesn’t allow me to order and takes me through several courses of what he feels like are his best. If I could sit down at every place I visit and just say, “I’ll have four courses of whatever the chef feels I should have, thank you.” I imagine it would be more exciting with suspense building just before the next dish as if each one were a gift.

While sipping on a cold glass of Biltmore Blanc de Blancs I received my first gift: A shrimp and calamari salad with pickled jalapeno and carrot for garnish. The acidity of the citrus and pungent flavors of fresh herb brightened up the seafood brilliantly. This first tapas dish, definitely a must-have when you visit, showcased perfectly cooked squid – a celebrated feat to accomplish when dealing with an ingredient so many ruin. The flavors paired together remarkably well and left me wanting more after each bite.

Switching to something completely different, but keeping with the tapas trend of the meal, we were presented next with a twist on a southern favorite, fried green tomato on a bed of arugula and finished with a cool, spiced, house-made pineapple chutney. Being from and of the South, I have had many fried green tomatoes in my time. My mother makes them well and often. Chef Ryan has created a version that holds true to the classic while keeping it fresh and interesting. His tomato’s crust comes from panko, which I prefer over the batter that others use. The peppery greens that dress the plate compliment the tomato very well and add an appreciated element to the dish. But the chutney… wow! After trying it with a bite of tomato and arugula, I’ve decided there’s almost no sense in attempting to enjoy the dish without it! Amazing how a few simple things, when paired together can make something so complete.

I’ve always loved stuffed peppers. Most do, I would imagine, and so when I discovered a sweet Spanish pepper stuffed with Idiazabal, an unpasteurized sheep’s milk cheese, on the menu I had to try it. Luckily for me, the chef agreed and made it our next course. Oozing with the cheese and a subtle spicy, smoky flavor this pepper brought a welcomed Latin flair to our lunch. Outdoors with a nice, cool breeze, with jazz riffs floating through the air, this tapas just seemed to fit. All of our dishes had fit, actually. Different and unique in their own ways, they still seemed to work well one after the other. There was a deliberate flow to our meal that was not only delicious, but relaxing in a way. We were allowed to sort of kick up our feet, leaving all the decision making to our hosts. Actually, it was quite nice for a change.

As I sat back for a moment, taking it all in, I found a contented grin forming across my face. I love this place, I thought to myself, and my smile grew wider as I could see our next dish on its way. Bruschetta two ways (my title) had been selected for us and I must say that pairing the two together was a nice touch. First I tried Three Graces Dairy’s local-made feta cheese paired with figs soaked with Biltmore Estate honey over a toasty slice of French baguette. The naturally perfectly sweet honey with the tangy feta and the unique fruitiness of the figs were a match made in heaven. I can honestly say that I have never experienced this combination before – this is a truly original dish as far as I’m concerned. Every chef’s menu is a continuing work in progress, but I sincerely hope that this one stays. I don’t believe anyone could get tired of eating it! My second bruschetta was more of a classic representation of the popular Italian appetizer. Pairing white bean and garlic hummus in place of cheese with delicious, rich balsamic reduction balanced the acidity of the marinated tomatoes really well, making yet another complete, well-executed tasty creation.

Now that we had experienced several diverse options from the tapas menu, the chef decided we needed a palette cleanser before continuing on. I welcomed the idea, and when I was told that it would be an oyster, I was eager to see what he would do with this versatile shellfish. Promptly, it arrived on the half shell, resting on a bed of rock salt with a pico of cucumber, jalapeno, and tomato atop the meaty oyster. Happy that I had a crisp sparkling wine to enjoy with this course, I added a dab of hot sauce and dove in, taking it all in one bite. Magical! Immediately my mind was whooshed away to the sea as waves crashed in my mouth with all the flavors swimming along my reef of taste buds. I found myself subconsciously slowly shaking my head back and forth in astonishment at how much I enjoyed the delicacy. Glancing at my guest, we both laughed, simultaneously exclaiming how delicious our fifth course was. Bravo Ryan, my favorite selection of the entire meal!

Finally, the main attraction at this multi-course extravaganza, the chef’s feature for the day: marinated flat iron steak quesadilla, and we were offered Chef Ryan’s Truffle Fries to accompany our beef. I like comfort food done well. In fact, I feel as though no menu is complete without a little something familiar to entertain the guest. Yellow corn, onion, and roasted red peppers filled in the gaps between large slices of flavorful steak and a house-smoked provolone and white Vermont cheddar blend, making it a fail-proof combination. Now, I realize that writing about how delicious truffle oil is somewhat unnecessary, but when you drizzle it over large, crispy steak fries, and add in copious amounts of finely grated parmesan cheese you have to write about it. And talk about it. And try to recreate it for yourself later when you can’t seem to stop thinking about it. Ok, so maybe I’m going a little overboard but wait to make your call until after you’ve experienced it all for yourself!

Of course, those of you who know me or my writing realize that I could not leave without indulging in one of the exquisite desserts that make up the bottom portion of the menu. And who wouldn’t love a scrumptious, smooth, rich chocolate cream pie complete with Chantilly cream and fresh, shaved dark chocolate all on a picture-perfect, house-made buttery, flaky crust? Need I say more?

It must be said, having now enjoyed three of the Biltmore Estate’s restaurants, that I have finally found my favorite. The concept where I can dine again and again and always be excited to return. Where the service is superlative and the chef is extraordinary. Just in case the Biltmore Execs aren’t convinced for themselves, there is some serious food coming out of that kitchen, and Arbor Grill satisfies a need in our corner of North Carolina that no other concept does. Sure there are patios you can sit and eat at downtown. There are very talented chefs as close as the Bistro upstairs. But this one has an edge, it beats all the others and it stands out, at least to me.

G.

(Many thanks to Rachael for her unparalleled hospitality and excellent kindness, I hope you realize that you possess what so many cannot!)

Wine Sophisticate

Fig Bistro's Recipe for Success:

Five (5) courses, each carefully paired with fine wines
One (1) Eleventh generation French winemaker, named Jerome Quiot
Thirty (30) eager foodies, stuffed into Fig's elegant dining room

Combine all ingredients. Allow to simmer for an entire evening.
Result: Palette expanding, stunning happiness.

It was about three weeks ago that we received an e-mail outlining the particulars of a wine pairing dinner hosted by Fig. Immediately excited, we read on to discover that Jerome Quiot, the actual winemaker himself would be there, discussing his family's concept of making wine and why this coveted juice is so sought after. The Quiot family owns large parcels of land in three prominent regions of France, and boasts a long tradition of creating amazing blends using the same Old World techniques their ancestors started many years before. To me, this was an event that I wouldn't think of missing. An amazing chef, a famed winemaker, one of my favorite restaurants... how could I pass this up?

Our party of four was greeted warmly with a familiar smile as we were shown to my favorite table that overlooks Biltmore Village. A bubbling glass of Prosecco appeared almost instantly and so began our evening. For starters, Chef Bill Klein addressed the crowd with his eccentric personality that suggested his artistic mind had been going for days. In fact, we were told he had tweaked the menu up until the very last second, with every attention to detail.

Appropriately following the chef was Monsieur Quiot, and just as quickly as one round of applause subsided another started out of respect for our guest. Apologizing for his poor English, and graciously asking for our patience, Jerome began to tell us about his family and our first wine from Southern France where he resides.

We started with a light, crisp, fruit-forward white wine paired with perfectly seared, medium rare Maine Scallops and cous cous with lemon confit, cucumber, and harissa. The scallop was truly exceptional, almost melting in my mouth and its bed of cous cous was quite nice as an accent to both the wine and the scallop. After several moments of silence at our table as we let our taste buds do the talking, I realized that I could have an entire meal of this appetizer and be completely satisfied! The sweetness of the wine balanced out the spicy flavors in the sauce, gently guiding me back to the buttery, moist seafood that was the centerpiece of the plate.

Transitioning to a Rosé wine, Chef Klein selected Alaskan Halibut as the best choice and served it over braised endive with an endive salad. "Endive on endive", he called it and the two preparations worked beautifully together. Fresh chive garnished the fish and added a wonderful herbaceous layer to the soft, sophisticated flavors of the dish. The rosé, made from fruit grown on Monsieur Quiot's wife's property in Provence, was somehow better after taking a bite of halibut, and in turn, the flavors of the food were also enhanced by the wine, bringing both to a whole new level and making this my favorite pairing of the evening!

Approaching the half-way point of the meal, I was hoping for a red wine to compliment our next dish: spiced tuna with spinach, granny smith apple, and sherry vinaigrette, and luckily I didn't even have to ask as my wine was aptly provided. First, I should say that I love tuna, it's a wonderful fish and I eat it often. There are many, many ways one can prepare tuna, and it is served raw or very rare for the most part. I had not however previously experienced a tuna dusted with cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander (as well as other ambiguous spices) and seared as Chef Klein mastered the popular fish in a new way for our third course. As I tasted the apple with the various spices on the tuna I was reminded of flavors I'd enjoyed many times, but this was different. The wine played off the nutmeg and paired surprisingly well with the cinnamon before opening up to envelope the tuna and round out with the sharpness of the apple. With an exceptionally long finish, I found myself enjoying the pairing well after the wine and food were gone, making mental notes to recall when writing today so that I could somehow convey the emotion I felt at that exact moment.

While keeping with the trend of introducing new flavor combinations and broadening our food horizons, we were offered next a roasted leg of lamb with a gourmet twist on "beans and rice" he calls "tacu-tacu", asparagus, morels, and spring onion ragoût. Fresh, seasonal selections are crucial in classical French cuisine, and although Fig's chef certainly takes some creative liberties with his menu, this basic knowledge was obviously not lost along the way, and thankfully so! By pairing each component of the dish so well, and then adding an incredibly well-blended red that brings out all the earthy, savory flavors just begging to be enjoyed, I can’t help but think Chef Klein intended for the lamb to stand out like a main course. In truth, it was the best executed most fulfilling course on the menu. The meat was fantastically rare and after three courses of seafood I was craving something a little more mainland. I cannot say enough about the wine chosen to pair with this dish. From the aromatic nose, the velvety-smooth mouth feel, to the incredibly complex finish this wine was absolutely extraordinary and a perfect representation of what French wine culture is all about.

No dinner, especially one of this magnitude, could be complete without an incredible, soon to be talked-about dessert to end on an even higher note. The first thing that came to my mind when I first read the description of our sweet course was, I'll bet it's going to be a perfect balance of salty and sweet! In a surprise move, a delicate, rich chocolate cake layered with mascarpone was accompanied by delicious apricot and something very unique: bacon brittle! Astonished and excited at the choice of bacon for a dessert pairing, I had waited the entire meal with great anticipation for this dish. As the final wine was poured, I dug into the cake being sure to get a little piece of bacon brittle with my first bite. Absolute genius! The flavors were so surprising and yet so perfect together, just as I had imagined, harnessing both salty and sweet goodness. The cake itself was expertly made and could easily be featured in any gourmet food magazine served exactly the same. The wine pairing for this dish could only be described as phenomenal. Perfectly balancing both faces of the dessert and being an incredibly complex wine by itself, the winemaker and chef certainly saved the best for last.

Wine dinners are always fun, usually educational, and should definitely satisfy your hunger and thirst. But when exceptionally talented people who are really passionate about food and wine get to have this much fun with these kinds of ingredients the whole concept of a wine pairing dinner is revamped. Fig has now raised the bar for every other place in town that attempts such an endeavor. No more can you get by with just a wine shop owner talking about what bottles he wishes to get rid of. No more can you pair ordinary menu items that you’re trying to promote solely to further your own business. No sir, not in this town. Not when there are restaurateurs like Treavis Taylor and chefs like Bill Klein who have contacts with big name winemakers in the south of France. Look out Asheville, these guys really know their stuff and they’re not afraid to show it!

G.

(I should mention that writing two reviews about the same concept so close together is not what I would normally do. In fact, I have recently experienced another amazing restaurant that I feel everyone should hear about, but chose not to write about that experience because I had recently featured its sister concept on the Biltmore Estate. However, this was an exception to the rule, to the original direction I pictured my writing to follow. I hope you agree that it was necessary!)

Sacred Sunday Brunch in The Village

Ahh, Sunday Brunch: all one has to do is utter those two words and a smile will creep onto my face as my eyes become wispy and nostalgic. With mouth-watering anticipation I mentally calculate how long before the next Sunday morning finds its rightful place on my calendar. For me, brunch is sacred, something that only Sunday can truly claim. I prefer a combination of sun and shade on a private patio with light music playing and a nicely spiced bloody mary for starters. If you're perceptive you will spot me: large dark sunglasses, crisp button-down, jeans, and Hungry.

This Sunday, blessed with perfect blue skies and a cooling breeze, we selected a quiet outdoor dining area annexed by a thick hedge from bumbling Biltmore Village at none other than Corner Kitchen.

This Southern-with-a-Gourmet-Twist concept is already a favorite among locals as well as the many tourists who tend to migrate to The Village around this time each year. It's cozy and comfortable, with a sort of homey feel. In fact, the building itself is an old house, once a dwelling for middle class long before the shops and restaurants appeared. Outside, a tranquil waterfall trickles in the background, enhancing the ambience the mountain breeze and fragrant spring flowers inherently create. Large umbrellas centered at each table produce a sort of roof, all pieced together just so, reluctantly allowing slivers of sunlight here and there to appreciative diners.

As I read and re-read the menu, it became quite obvious that choosing just one of their many delicious dishes was going to be impossible for us. We managed to narrow it down to three and dove into our bloody marys, remarking about their house-made mix as self-proclaimed connoisseurs. The piercing rays of warm morning sun added to the laissez-faire attitude already permeating the patio and before long our delectable brunch arrived on colorful Fiesta plates begging to be devoured.

Despite how anxious I was to try the Chef's twist on the classic Eggs Benedict, we found ourselves quickly cutting into a shared F.S. Carbon Waffle with fresh strawberries, bananas, blueberry compote, and real maple syrup. So fast, that I was truly unable to hold back long enough to even snap a photo of the beautiful presentation! Admittedly, I had to ask about the name of the waffle, as I was completely unfamiliar with "F.S. Carbon". As explained by our knowledgeable server and an incredibly friendly manager, F.S. Carbon is a waffle maker company and they manufacture and sell the gourmet mix as well. Apparently, these waffles are somewhat famous in certain areas of the country. I can see why!

Being an obvious slave to traditional brunch and since the now-eaten waffle had only aroused my appetite, I shifted my attention to my orignal selection: Eggs Bennie. This particular take on a classic dish traded the original English muffin for a homemade biscuit, bringing appropriate southern comfort to my plate. With expertly made, spiced hollandaise, perfectly poached eggs and succulent ham, Eggs Bennie proved to be the best executed, best tasting, most fulfilling Benedict I have tried in the entire city. And, I must say, that is a bold statement.

A brunch could not be complete without a light and fluffy omelet, and this one was no exception to the rule. The Chef made it just the right size, full of red and green bell peppers, onions, and tomatoes plus creamy havarti all paired with roasted potatoes. Considering this is a combination of some of my favorite ingredients of all time, I was quite pleased! Despite my stomach being overly full, I continued to eat until almost every bite was gone, not sure as to how long it would be until I could return and wanting to relish it all.

Among the many shops and few tasty eateries of Biltmore Village there are many places that you may pass by. Perhaps you'll peer into the window of a boutique or glance at the menu posted outside a restaurant before moving on, unsure of its true colors. Believe me when I say: Corner Kitchen is not one of the places you should choose to pass by. There is a reason you'll wait half an hour for a table, and for you own good, remember that your mother taught you to be patient. Yes, there are other places to go. Yes, they may even satisfy your hunger. But they may not leave you telling others about how amazing your experience was for days to come, as I am doing now. I don't know about you, but on Sunday morning around noon, I'll be the one in the sunglasses, waiting, anticipating, proud that I know I'm at the right place.

G.