Under the Arbor - A Lesson in Gastronomy

Once again my not-so-distant travels have taken me to the now lush and buzzing Biltmore Estate. I know a hard life indeed. But now that our southern climate’s mild afternoons beckon me out in the sun I have to admit I’ve discovered there’s no better way to enjoy them than at an exclusive tucked-away jewel back at the Winery. They call it Arbor Grill (appropriately named and located adjacent to a sidewalk covered by a vine-growing arbor), a seasonal, outdoor-only concept that provides shady, relaxed dining accompanied by delicious aromas carried by the occasional breeze. Reminding guests of patios they might find in Napa or Miami, Chef Ryan presents this summer’s anticipated menu twist: proudly offering gourmet tapas. Somehow, yet again, the big wigs on the Estate have found a way to meld big city style with sweeping mountain views all without venturing so far that patrons forget who took them there. In fact, if they’re at all like me, they leave reluctantly, wishing they weren’t too full to continue, and quite gracious.

There’s nothing more pleasing to me, as someone who has the utmost respect and appreciation for gourmet food, than when a chef doesn’t allow me to order and takes me through several courses of what he feels like are his best. If I could sit down at every place I visit and just say, “I’ll have four courses of whatever the chef feels I should have, thank you.” I imagine it would be more exciting with suspense building just before the next dish as if each one were a gift.

While sipping on a cold glass of Biltmore Blanc de Blancs I received my first gift: A shrimp and calamari salad with pickled jalapeno and carrot for garnish. The acidity of the citrus and pungent flavors of fresh herb brightened up the seafood brilliantly. This first tapas dish, definitely a must-have when you visit, showcased perfectly cooked squid – a celebrated feat to accomplish when dealing with an ingredient so many ruin. The flavors paired together remarkably well and left me wanting more after each bite.

Switching to something completely different, but keeping with the tapas trend of the meal, we were presented next with a twist on a southern favorite, fried green tomato on a bed of arugula and finished with a cool, spiced, house-made pineapple chutney. Being from and of the South, I have had many fried green tomatoes in my time. My mother makes them well and often. Chef Ryan has created a version that holds true to the classic while keeping it fresh and interesting. His tomato’s crust comes from panko, which I prefer over the batter that others use. The peppery greens that dress the plate compliment the tomato very well and add an appreciated element to the dish. But the chutney… wow! After trying it with a bite of tomato and arugula, I’ve decided there’s almost no sense in attempting to enjoy the dish without it! Amazing how a few simple things, when paired together can make something so complete.

I’ve always loved stuffed peppers. Most do, I would imagine, and so when I discovered a sweet Spanish pepper stuffed with Idiazabal, an unpasteurized sheep’s milk cheese, on the menu I had to try it. Luckily for me, the chef agreed and made it our next course. Oozing with the cheese and a subtle spicy, smoky flavor this pepper brought a welcomed Latin flair to our lunch. Outdoors with a nice, cool breeze, with jazz riffs floating through the air, this tapas just seemed to fit. All of our dishes had fit, actually. Different and unique in their own ways, they still seemed to work well one after the other. There was a deliberate flow to our meal that was not only delicious, but relaxing in a way. We were allowed to sort of kick up our feet, leaving all the decision making to our hosts. Actually, it was quite nice for a change.

As I sat back for a moment, taking it all in, I found a contented grin forming across my face. I love this place, I thought to myself, and my smile grew wider as I could see our next dish on its way. Bruschetta two ways (my title) had been selected for us and I must say that pairing the two together was a nice touch. First I tried Three Graces Dairy’s local-made feta cheese paired with figs soaked with Biltmore Estate honey over a toasty slice of French baguette. The naturally perfectly sweet honey with the tangy feta and the unique fruitiness of the figs were a match made in heaven. I can honestly say that I have never experienced this combination before – this is a truly original dish as far as I’m concerned. Every chef’s menu is a continuing work in progress, but I sincerely hope that this one stays. I don’t believe anyone could get tired of eating it! My second bruschetta was more of a classic representation of the popular Italian appetizer. Pairing white bean and garlic hummus in place of cheese with delicious, rich balsamic reduction balanced the acidity of the marinated tomatoes really well, making yet another complete, well-executed tasty creation.

Now that we had experienced several diverse options from the tapas menu, the chef decided we needed a palette cleanser before continuing on. I welcomed the idea, and when I was told that it would be an oyster, I was eager to see what he would do with this versatile shellfish. Promptly, it arrived on the half shell, resting on a bed of rock salt with a pico of cucumber, jalapeno, and tomato atop the meaty oyster. Happy that I had a crisp sparkling wine to enjoy with this course, I added a dab of hot sauce and dove in, taking it all in one bite. Magical! Immediately my mind was whooshed away to the sea as waves crashed in my mouth with all the flavors swimming along my reef of taste buds. I found myself subconsciously slowly shaking my head back and forth in astonishment at how much I enjoyed the delicacy. Glancing at my guest, we both laughed, simultaneously exclaiming how delicious our fifth course was. Bravo Ryan, my favorite selection of the entire meal!

Finally, the main attraction at this multi-course extravaganza, the chef’s feature for the day: marinated flat iron steak quesadilla, and we were offered Chef Ryan’s Truffle Fries to accompany our beef. I like comfort food done well. In fact, I feel as though no menu is complete without a little something familiar to entertain the guest. Yellow corn, onion, and roasted red peppers filled in the gaps between large slices of flavorful steak and a house-smoked provolone and white Vermont cheddar blend, making it a fail-proof combination. Now, I realize that writing about how delicious truffle oil is somewhat unnecessary, but when you drizzle it over large, crispy steak fries, and add in copious amounts of finely grated parmesan cheese you have to write about it. And talk about it. And try to recreate it for yourself later when you can’t seem to stop thinking about it. Ok, so maybe I’m going a little overboard but wait to make your call until after you’ve experienced it all for yourself!

Of course, those of you who know me or my writing realize that I could not leave without indulging in one of the exquisite desserts that make up the bottom portion of the menu. And who wouldn’t love a scrumptious, smooth, rich chocolate cream pie complete with Chantilly cream and fresh, shaved dark chocolate all on a picture-perfect, house-made buttery, flaky crust? Need I say more?

It must be said, having now enjoyed three of the Biltmore Estate’s restaurants, that I have finally found my favorite. The concept where I can dine again and again and always be excited to return. Where the service is superlative and the chef is extraordinary. Just in case the Biltmore Execs aren’t convinced for themselves, there is some serious food coming out of that kitchen, and Arbor Grill satisfies a need in our corner of North Carolina that no other concept does. Sure there are patios you can sit and eat at downtown. There are very talented chefs as close as the Bistro upstairs. But this one has an edge, it beats all the others and it stands out, at least to me.

G.

(Many thanks to Rachael for her unparalleled hospitality and excellent kindness, I hope you realize that you possess what so many cannot!)