The Savvy Eater

4 Reasons Hotel INDIGO is Changing How You Think About "Hotel Food"

2010-08-28T18:45:00.011-04:00

Have you heard about the new chic Hotel INDIGO boutique hotel brand sweeping the nation? If not, you've got some catching up to do. With only 35 locations worldwide, Hotel INDIGO is setting trends everywhere it goes, and here's why:

"Refreshingly Local" - More than just a tag line, the brand's newest concept of encouraging their individually-owned bars and bistros to become part of their communities and neighbo

rhoods is really smart. One will find local cheeses, meats, produce, wine, beer, and more listed on each chef-made menu.

Affordable & Approachable - As the nation's economy continues to drag, so does fine dining restaurant sales. Perhaps the reason is not the price point but the resistance to trying new, adventurous things when times are so uncertain for many consumers. Hotel INDIGO's take on gourmet cuisine provides each guest with familiar, approachable choices "kicked up a notch" by experienced chefs and done so at reasonable prices.

Seasonal & Homemade - Truly great cuisine showcases not only the skills of the chefs but celebrates the seasons and what makes them so special from one another. Whether it's a delicately-layered butternut squash soup or a homemade veal stock that takes three days to prepare, you can just taste the difference in hand-crafted food. Hotel INDIGO guarantees ultra-fresh cuisine by making this a standard practice in their new locations.

Outstanding bars - From hand-picked wine lists to local beers and original cocktails, these bars are memorable and fun. While keeping the laid back atmosphere we've come to expect from a local watering hole, Hotel INDIGO bars still find a way to give their cocktails a "twist" of sophistication without the snooty-ness of big city clubs. Incredible bartenders and superb service top it all off to one fantastic experience.

One last thing worth mentioning is the individuality in each location. Although a branded hotel and a well-defined concept, Hotel INDIGOs are entirely different from one another. Everything from the design and size of the building itself to the ownership and restaurant menus. In fact, while you will almost always have an amazing experience no matter which property you choose, each of those experiences will be custom-tailored to that specific neighborhood or town. What you may find great at San Diego Gaslamp Quarter will be entirely different from what you will enjoy about the Asheville Downtown location. One thing's for sure, Hotel INDIGOs everywhere are changing everything we thought we knew about "hotel food."

Hotel INDIGO Asheville Downtown

151 Haywood St.

Asheville, NC 28801

828.239.0239 | www.boutiquehotel-asheville.com

The Skinny Eater

2010-06-22T18:13:00.018-04:00

Or should you?? Alright, so "skinny chef" probably isn't the most correct way to describe me (in fact, it's a registered trademark so please don't call me that!) I'd say "healthy" might fit better, although I do strive to be more and more physically fit each day. Especially each summer day. This, as I'm sure you are aware, can prove to be difficult when your main passion in life is food. There are ways however, to explore your inner foodie without ruining your outer body - so read on for a few suggestions on how to have fun this summer and stay fit.

One of the best warm weather dishes is ceviche.

It's cool, light, easy to eat on a hot day, and yet somehow very satisfying. Chorizo at the Grove Arcade does a great job with this Latin favorite and they switch it up not just every day, but often in between lunch and dinner as well, using different type of fresh fish and seafood. Stop in and see what Chef/Owner Hector has put together and enjoy this protein-packed, low-calorie, foodie fave on their airy patio. (Just go easy on the tasty tortilla chips they serve with it!)

Something I often crave, especially at this time of the year, is a big salad. I always think of that Seinfeld episode where Elaine asks George and Jerry t

o bring her a "big salad" from their favorite coffee shop cafe. Without a doubt the best place I've found for a big salad is Laughing Seed Cafe on Wall St. Try the "Wall St. Salad" a play on the classic Waldorf Salad with purple Peruvian potatoes and a light, delicious dressing.

Finally, I'm sure you'll need something cool and refreshing to wash

it all down so hop on over to Beans and Berries on Merrimon Ave. Their "Good for You" and "Even More Good for You" smoothies will knock your socks off - or your pants, since you'll be losing a few pounds. The smoothies aren't the only deliciously wholesome offering on their menu, they

boast several unique breakfast and lunch items as well as espresso drinks. In a hurry? They have a drive-thru window! Now how many restaurants with a pick-up window do you know of that offer great stuff like this?

So, dear Foodie, don't curb your cravings for delicious fare this summer - find new and fun ways to eat without the guilt!

Bajan Breakfast & Tapas by the Beach

2010-04-02T00:10:00.014-04:00

After four days on the island and plenty of delicious dinners, I realized what I was missing: a proper breakfast! Generally speaking, I am a huge fan of breakfast. It is the most important meal of the day, after all. In the States it isn't uncommon for me to enjoy three scrambled eggs, a slice of applewood-smoked bacon, some fresh spinach and tomato, and a nice cheese five days a week to begin my often long and demanding days. Here in Barbados, however, I have found breakfast to be somewhat difficult with the family schedule and definite skepticism on my part of eating certain foods in foreign countries. I know it's a bit ironic for someone such as myself, "a hopeless foodie," to pick about a supermarket looking down my nose at everyday items and refuse to eat them. I have the horror stories of food-borne illnesses told to me by an over-zealous chef instructor back in culinary school to thank for that, I suppose.

Today was a new and different day on the island. I was awakened before 8am which of course is not enjoyable but often must be done, and ushered towards the shower with promises of a large breakfast (again, a soft spot indeed.) After a quick shower and fresh pair of clothes, I donned my big, dark sunglasses and ear phones and crawled into the rented van. Winding through the streets of Christ Church and Oistins we came to a tourist area near Accra Beach and found a small, open-aired (as most places here are) patio cafe. Quickly gulping down black coffee (diner quality at best - good coffee of any sort has proved to be almost non-existent in Barbados, as far as I can tell) I found an omelet on the menu and ordered. What a nice choice it was! There were three eggs, onions, bell peppers, sausage, ham, and bacon, plus cheese and two slices of toast complete with an assortment of jellies. The omelet was satisfying and very homey, reminding me of how my grandmother might make it. Certainly not a perfect, fluffy omelet by any chef's standards but comforting - reminding me of my southern heritage back home. After a couple refills of the diner coffee I was ready for another day in paradise.

We spent the rest of the afternoon swimming and soaking up the sun, and of course working up an enormous appetite. Aside from the cold, left-over piece of flying fish (a local favorite) I scarfed down around 2:30pm, I had eaten nothing since breakfast and was eagerly awaiting dinner. The restaurant we decided upon was called Tapas and guess what kind of food they serve! Actually, they had an extensive menu, some tapas-style dishes, some starters, and several entrees.

For starters we chose Shark Fritters, two nice pieces of shark meet breaded and fried and served with a sweet chili dipping sauce. The flavor of the fish was surprising sweet and paired extremely well with the spice of the chilis. Finishing off a house cocktail humorously named Jack Sparrow, I took a moment to take in the last bit of sunlight as dusk lazily transformed into night, the previously hazy skies now the familiar dark blanket home to countless diamond-like stars, and thought this is nice, the sea lapping beneath us, the sounds and smells, the experience of diverse culture....

I ordered a glass of Pinot Noir (by the way, the "r" is definitely pronounced in that word, contrary to the belief of some non-savvy wine drinkers who I recently encountered - but that it is a different story) that was, surprisingly and to my delight, served slightly chilled. If memory serves me right, it was at this point in our dinner that I realized the level of service we were receiving. Up until this point, maybe it was conversation or the distraction of the sights around us, I had failed to notice that my bread plate was just to the left, that everthing was given to me from the left and in turn, taken from the right as soon as I had finished, not to mention the ease and politeness of the server himself. To me (and my brother, who by profession is a fine dining server and was sitting across the table) truly great service can make or break the entire experience, regardless of food quality or ambience - and in this country, we came to realize, great service is a rare commodity.

My next course, the entree, was Blackened Mahi with Mango Salsa, surprisingly light and delicious mashed potatoes, delicate wilted spinach and a sweet, creamy sauce - elegantly presented and absolutely fantastic. The fish was cooked perfectly, ultra-fresh, and the contrast of the blackening spice and sweet, tropical mango played a symphony on my palate, each bite another movement building momentum and enjoyment.

As I have mentioned before, coffee of any decent quality has been a challenge to find on my journey around Barbados this week. Having been told that Tapas is actually owned by an Italian gentleman (Alfredo, whom I would later meet) and knowing what I do about espresso, I was excited to order a shot to pair with my dessert. Which brings me to the dessert itself: a classic french tart with apples and almonds, homemade cinnamon ice cream, and vanilla creme anglaise. This offering accomplished everything that I want the completion of my dinner to be. Sweet and rich, yet somehow light - so irresistable you find yourself scraping the sauce off the plate until the server insists on removing it.

Pleasantly full of well-crafted, fresh, gourmet cuisine and above-average wine, we reluctantly left our table and found our way downstairs where the open-air bar had now transformed into a happening spot in the Bajan nightlife scene. After thanking Alfredo for our lovely experience, I promised I would return to the beautiful seaside restaurant - happy as a clam to have one more fantastic place to acclaim to my readers.

Bad News: Laptop Died; Good News: The Locals are Foodies!

2010-03-29T21:16:00.016-04:00

NOTE TO THE READER: Just as I was about to leave town to hop a plane for beautiful Barbados (see previous post if you're just joining us), my not-so-beloved (as of late) laptop decided it had ran its last command. Why is this important to the story since I obviously found another one to use while I'm here? The camera software that allows me to upload my photography to this blog is of course installed only on my now-dead laptop - install CD back in the States. So please bare with me here as I could only add photos I took with my phone!

Every where we have gone on this tiny island there is food. Fish, plaintains, pork (indigenous to the island!), and various spices make up the vast majority of the menu at each tiny, open, roadside stand. Friendly locals call out to you from the sidewalks and tempt you with the smell of the grill until their plastic chairs are full with a vibrant mix of locals and tourists gobbling up flying fish, dolphin, blue marlin and the like.

Highly recommended by some American locals, we chose one of only a few fine dining establishments on the island for our first dinner. It's called Champers, which I'm told is a British term referring to Champagne but implying a sort of snobbery along with it. The beauty of this seaside restaurant is trumped only by the breathtaking sunsets its patrons enjoy.

I made an easy decision for a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and asked the friendly server to recommend a dish. She promptly declared that the barracuda was the best on the menu. Of course, I had to try it! The chef had prepared it with a parmesan crust and had it elegantly presented over mashed potatoes with steamed Spring vegetables and a delicious, creamy sauce. The fish was white, flaky, tender and surprisingly filling. An excellent welcoming dish for someone who adores fresh fish but can rarely enjoy it at its freshest.

We rounded out the evening with a delicious tiramisu and homemade chocolate ice cream accompanied with a nice glass of Grand Marnier. With the waves crashing in the background, an almost-full moon, a gazebo surrounding our table and superb service, we saw why Champers had come so highly recommended and warmly thanked our hosts for a delicious first meal.

After a long next morning of snorkeling and swimming, we worked up another large appetite for local fare. On our must-try list was Oistons Fish Market, conveniently situated between the ocean and a major thoroughfare. Next to the market where they clean and sell the freshly caught fish is a long row of restaurants all of which are outdoors and outfitted with plastic tables and chairs, each grilling their catch to perfection and serving it up with a large variety of homemade sides. We chose one called Pat's Place. To begin, you must choose a fish - all of which are priced basically the same, at about 25 Barbados dollars (about $13 US.) This price includes as many sides as you can eat with no extra charge! Upon asking our server to recommend her favorite selection out of flying fish, blue marlin, dolphin, swordfish, and tuna, she offered us a taste of all of them before we ordered a thing! After sampling each deliciously prepared fish, we all chose a favorite and anxiously sat waiting, enjoying cold, local Banks Beer.

My selection was dolphin, which I paired with coleslaw, fried plantains, and what they call "macaroni pie." From what I can tell, referring to it as "pie" is how they differentiate between what we think of as traditional macaroni and cheese and cold macaroni salad.

As you can imagine, the food was excellent. Topped off with a homemade hot sauce the fish came to life on the palate with the lovely smoke flavor lingering long afterwards as if to remind you how great it really was. For me there's something intoxicating about fresh fish prepared over an open flame next to the beautiful Caribbean Sea. Call me crazy but I can't think of a better way to enjoy it!

Tomorrow we have been invited to the home of one of the locals for dinner which I am really looking forward to. How else to truly enjoy the cuisine of the island? So far I'm one day into this trip and it looks like the locals are all foodies!

Getaway to Spring with Island Cuisine

2010-03-27T10:36:00.003-04:00

After a long and grueling winter in the southern Appalachian Mountains I am finally ready to get out there and do some real eating! Granted, I ate plenty this winter and have the food baby just above my belt to prove it. But for me Spring (and Fall, but for now Spring) is a time when we can truly celebrate food again. The vegetables and fruits whose roots have laid dormant for the last few months are now desperately reaching for sunlight and warmth. The inevitable April showers on the near horizon promise a bountiful crop of springtime delecacies leaving our mouths watering.

So what better way for me to kick off this glorious time of year than a trip to the islands? We chose Barbados near the southern tip of the West Indies just off the coast of South America for our getaway. That's right, dear readers, tomorrow morning yours truly will be hopping a jet plane bound for sun and fun and, oh yes... incredible Caribbean island cuisine!

My mission for this upcoming week will be to eat and drink as many local, fresh, indigenous ingredients as humanly possible and regale you all with my findings. Stay tuned for the first entry and be sure to follow me on Twitter to keep current!

Wine Soliloquy - A Perfect Answer

2009-10-14T18:58:00.002-04:00

In the motion picture Sideways, which I sincerely hope you are all familiar with - Paul Giamatti's character asks Virginia Madsen's character why she's so into wine. I am asked this exact question at least twice a week. I've given many answers, none of them ever seemed to really convey exactly how passionate I am about the wonderful juice. I hereby, proudly submit the most perfect reply to that question that I have found to date:

"I think about the life of wine. How it's a living thing. I like to think about what was going on the year the grapes were growing; how the sun was shining; if it rained. I like to think about all the people who tended and picked the grapes. And if it's an old wine, how many of them must be dead by now. I like how wine continues to evolve, like if I opened a bottle of wine today it would taste different than if I'd opened it on any other day, because a bottle of wine is actually alive. And it's constantly evolving and gaining complexity. That is, until it peaks, like your '61. And then it begins its steady, inevitable decline.... And it tastes so f***ing good."

-Virginia Madsen as Maya in "Sideways"

G.

Daily Caffeine Drip (-olator)

2009-08-25T15:20:00.014-04:00

The local coffee shop: the place where many people start each day. Sadly, too many of those daily grinders settle for the first stop available, rarely enjoying a quality cup and becoming accustomed to mediocrity. But true coffee lovers expect the real deal: fair trade, organic, locally roasted beans, ground to order and made fresh into that dark, ambrosial liquid we call coffee. Far from the burnt popcorn-tasting, teeth-staining, bitter brew served in truck stops and Starbucks nationwide. In fact, I'm having espresso right now, my fingers involuntarily twitching between keystrokes, heart racing, feeling the buzz - a smile-provoking euphoria I crave.

I have been appreciating and consuming fine coffees for years and years, and believe me I have made my rounds at the local spots. I've tried what various roasters claim to do differently from one another, tasted what each shop thinks is the best source for their beans, and even have experience as a barista, learning from a veteran how to make my own. I've come to the conclusion that it's not alone the type of coffee you buy, which roaster you choose, or what kind of machine you use to make it. It's the right combination thereof and the careful, watchful method in which any good barista takes pride in - that they can so skillfully craft something adored again and again is what makes it all come together.

"So where then!" you ask? It's The Dripolator Coffee Bar that stands out among a sea of competition as the perfect representation of what gourmet coffee culture is all about. If gastronomy is the study of the relationship between food and culture, then I am coining the term espronomy: the study of the relationship and effects of espresso and otherwise produced coffees on the population. Ok so maybe that's not the next definition supplied by Wikipedia, but folks at The Dripolator are cranking out a product that changes the way you look at and feel about coffee.

Located in the brand-new Pioneer Building on Broadway, just behind Greenlife, "The Drip" is a local's spot. The place where Tony Bourdain would be directed to upon rolling into town and asking around for a latte. Recently moving into this location, The Dripolator's owners decided to somewhat expand its offerings by adding local beer and wine to the menu. Featuring Wedge Brewery's Gollum High-Gravity, Payne's Pale Ale, Wit Bier, and I.P.A. In fact, supporting other local businesses is something that they pride themselves in. The pastries and desserts calling to you from their case are made locally, the furniture was made by a local carpenter, the coffee is roasted just across town, even the website was made by a local designer. This, for me, is like the icing on the cake, the perfect design in the frothy foam on my latte. Not only is the coffee here superior to Starbucks, Caribou Coffee and the like, but by supporting this local business, you're actually supporting several other local businesses all at the same time! Not to get off topic here, but that's just good economics.

So next time you decide that a cup of joe is what you chiefly need, make the short trek over to Broadway, pop in and say hello to the friendly locals at The Drip. Trust me, you'll be spoiled on REAL coffee from then on!

G.

Culinaire Menage á Trois

2009-08-17T12:41:00.013-04:00

Ahh... mid-summer in the southern Appalachian mountains. If asked about this area most would not likely tell of eclectic wine selections, artisan cheeses, fine gourmet tapas, or handmade french-inspired chocolates. But this is Asheville. A small, metropolitan jewel nestled in the heart of the Blue Ridge that is home to dozens of chef-run restaurants, wine bars, boutiques, and the like. A foodie's paradise, with more tantalizing choices than one could make in an evening, all within walking distance of one another. So, on this venture downtown we were forced, quite literally by hunger and thirst, to pick just a few. Three to be exact, progressing through many courses along the way and ultimately reaching the pinnacle of bliss -- a culinary menage á trois.

It seemed fitting to begin with wine and cheese, and the decision of where to have it was an obvious one: Sante Wine Bar, one of my favorites. With a wine list that changes more often than the seasons, you're almost certain to try something fresh and new each time you visit. So as the overly-warm southern day began to cool and soften into dusk, we prepared our palettes with crisp, dry, refreshing white wine, cheeses, and fresh, ripe, tomato bruschetta -- welcoming the evening with the anticipation of certain greatness. My wine selection, a Grüner Veltliner called Mo Velt, paired beautifully and was simply scrumptious, a perfect summer wine.

After teasing our appetites for over an hour, a unanimous decision propelled us to move on to our next destination and something of a main course: Zambra Tapas and Wine Bar. Tapas, if you've been keeping up with my writing, is something I absolutely love. Careful consideration, attention to detail, and unique flavor combinations are the reasons I enjoy Chef-made cuisine. Give me an opportunity to try three or four different courses, each a taste, a representation of who the chef is, and what he wants to convey through his food- his passion, and I'm in heaven. Pan-roasted, stuffed quail with lentils and romesco, Beef tenderloin with roasted garlic and mojo, Gnocchi with chevre cream sauce, Heirloom tomato napoleon with fresh mozzarella, fresh basil, and aged balsamic reduction- need I go on? A feast for the eyes, appetite, and mind all fit for the likes of a Spanish Conquistador and yet offered to us, and quite graciously received. In this symphony of perfection, one plate stands out above the rest: the quail, in all its tiny glory. When you visit Zambra, it's the quail, among others of course, but the quail you must choose at least once!

Here we sit, our bellies pleasantly full, sipping Spanish Tempranillo and Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, all quite euphoric, lazily laughing at stories being passed around the table. Even still, in this sublime moment there is but one more course whose need has yet to be satisfied: dessert. Rich, dark, captivating chocolate manipulated in ways that one can only imagine. So, as if jolted out of our food-induced hypnosis with the snap of a finger, we set out on an eight block trek towards the French Broad Chocolate Lounge. Here chocolate dreams come true right before your very eyes. There isn't a bad choice to be found in the enormous glass case filled with their handmade truffles. You won't taste a single disappointing cake, pie, or brownie. And you certainly won't be able to leave even a bite of the chocolate crème brûlée once you start eating it. The Chocolate Lounge, my friends takes the cake (pun quite intended!) when arguing over best dessert in Asheville.

So there you have it, we've reached the pinnacle of bliss, the cherry on top of a decidedly delectable dinner excursion- not to mention some very satisfied foodies!

G.

Under the Arbor - A Lesson in Gastronomy

2009-05-14T00:49:00.016-04:00

Once again my not-so-distant travels have taken me to the now lush and buzzing Biltmore Estate. I know a hard life indeed. But now that our southern climate’s mild afternoons beckon me out in the sun I have to admit I’ve discovered there’s no better way to enjoy them than at an exclusive tucked-away jewel back at the Winery. They call it Arbor Grill (appropriately named and located adjacent to a sidewalk covered by a vine-growing arbor), a seasonal, outdoor-only concept that provides shady, relaxed dining accompanied by delicious aromas carried by the occasional breeze. Reminding guests of patios they might find in Napa or Miami, Chef Ryan presents this summer’s anticipated menu twist: proudly offering gourmet tapas. Somehow, yet again, the big wigs on the Estate have found a way to meld big city style with sweeping mountain views all without venturing so far that patrons forget who took them there. In fact, if they’re at all like me, they leave reluctantly, wishing they weren’t too full to continue, and quite gracious.

There’s nothing more pleasing to me, as someone who has the utmost respect and appreciation for gourmet food, than when a chef doesn’t allow me to order and takes me through several courses of what he feels like are his best. If I could sit down at every place I visit and just say, “I’ll have four courses of whatever the chef feels I should have, thank you.” I imagine it would be more exciting with suspense building just before the next dish as if each one were a gift.

While sipping on a cold glass of Biltmore Blanc de Blancs I received my first gift: A shrimp and calamari salad with pickled jalapeno and carrot for garnish. The acidity of the citrus and pungent flavors of fresh herb brightened up the seafood brilliantly. This first tapas dish, definitely a must-have when you visit, showcased perfectly cooked squid – a celebrated feat to accomplish when dealing with an ingredient so many ruin. The flavors paired together remarkably well and left me wanting more after each bite.

Switching to something completely different, but keeping with the tapas trend of the meal, we were presented next with a twist on a southern favorite, fried green tomato on a bed of arugula and finished with a cool, spiced, house-made pineapple chutney. Being from and of the South, I have had many fried green tomatoes in my time. My mother makes them well and often. Chef Ryan has created a version that holds true to the classic while keeping it fresh and interesting. His tomato’s crust comes from panko, which I prefer over the batter that others use. The peppery greens that dress the plate compliment the tomato very well and add an appreciated element to the dish. But the chutney… wow! After trying it with a bite of tomato and arugula, I’ve decided there’s almost no sense in attempting to enjoy the dish without it! Amazing how a few simple things, when paired together can make something so complete.

I’ve always loved stuffed peppers. Most do, I would imagine, and so when I discovered a sweet Spanish pepper stuffed with Idiazabal, an unpasteurized sheep’s milk cheese, on the menu I had to try it. Luckily for me, the chef agreed and made it our next course. Oozing with the cheese and a subtle spicy, smoky flavor this pepper brought a welcomed Latin flair to our lunch. Outdoors with a nice, cool breeze, with jazz riffs floating through the air, this tapas just seemed to fit. All of our dishes had fit, actually. Different and unique in their own ways, they still seemed to work well one after the other. There was a deliberate flow to our meal that was not only delicious, but relaxing in a way. We were allowed to sort of kick up our feet, leaving all the decision making to our hosts. Actually, it was quite nice for a change.

As I sat back for a moment, taking it all in, I found a contented grin forming across my face. I love this place, I thought to myself, and my smile grew wider as I could see our next dish on its way. Bruschetta two ways (my title) had been selected for us and I must say that pairing the two together was a nice touch. First I tried Three Graces Dairy’s local-made feta cheese paired with figs soaked with Biltmore Estate honey over a toasty slice of French baguette. The naturally perfectly sweet honey with the tangy feta and the unique fruitiness of the figs were a match made in heaven. I can honestly say that I have never experienced this combination before – this is a truly original dish as far as I’m concerned. Every chef’s menu is a continuing work in progress, but I sincerely hope that this one stays. I don’t believe anyone could get tired of eating it! My second bruschetta was more of a classic representation of the popular Italian appetizer. Pairing white bean and garlic hummus in place of cheese with delicious, rich balsamic reduction balanced the acidity of the marinated tomatoes really well, making yet another complete, well-executed tasty creation.

Now that we had experienced several diverse options from the tapas menu, the chef decided we needed a palette cleanser before continuing on. I welcomed the idea, and when I was told that it would be an oyster, I was eager to see what he would do with this versatile shellfish. Promptly, it arrived on the half shell, resting on a bed of rock salt with a pico of cucumber, jalapeno, and tomato atop the meaty oyster. Happy that I had a crisp sparkling wine to enjoy with this course, I added a dab of hot sauce and dove in, taking it all in one bite. Magical! Immediately my mind was whooshed away to the sea as waves crashed in my mouth with all the flavors swimming along my reef of taste buds. I found myself subconsciously slowly shaking my head back and forth in astonishment at how much I enjoyed the delicacy. Glancing at my guest, we both laughed, simultaneously exclaiming how delicious our fifth course was. Bravo Ryan, my favorite selection of the entire meal!

Finally, the main attraction at this multi-course extravaganza, the chef’s feature for the day: marinated flat iron steak quesadilla, and we were offered Chef Ryan’s Truffle Fries to accompany our beef. I like comfort food done well. In fact, I feel as though no menu is complete without a little something familiar to entertain the guest. Yellow corn, onion, and roasted red peppers filled in the gaps between large slices of flavorful steak and a house-smoked provolone and white Vermont cheddar blend, making it a fail-proof combination. Now, I realize that writing about how delicious truffle oil is somewhat unnecessary, but when you drizzle it over large, crispy steak fries, and add in copious amounts of finely grated parmesan cheese you have to write about it. And talk about it. And try to recreate it for yourself later when you can’t seem to stop thinking about it. Ok, so maybe I’m going a little overboard but wait to make your call until after you’ve experienced it all for yourself!

Of course, those of you who know me or my writing realize that I could not leave without indulging in one of the exquisite desserts that make up the bottom portion of the menu. And who wouldn’t love a scrumptious, smooth, rich chocolate cream pie complete with Chantilly cream and fresh, shaved dark chocolate all on a picture-perfect, house-made buttery, flaky crust? Need I say more?

It must be said, having now enjoyed three of the Biltmore Estate’s restaurants, that I have finally found my favorite. The concept where I can dine again and again and always be excited to return. Where the service is superlative and the chef is extraordinary. Just in case the Biltmore Execs aren’t convinced for themselves, there is some serious food coming out of that kitchen, and Arbor Grill satisfies a need in our corner of North Carolina that no other concept does. Sure there are patios you can sit and eat at downtown. There are very talented chefs as close as the Bistro upstairs. But this one has an edge, it beats all the others and it stands out, at least to me.

G.

(Many thanks to Rachael for her unparalleled hospitality and excellent kindness, I hope you realize that you possess what so many cannot!)

Wine Sophisticate

2009-05-06T12:05:00.015-04:00

Fig Bistro's Recipe for Success:

Five (5) courses, each carefully paired with fine wines
One (1) Eleventh generation French winemaker, named Jerome Quiot
Thirty (30) eager foodies, stuffed into Fig's elegant dining room

Combine all ingredients. Allow to simmer for an entire evening.
Result: Palette expanding, stunning happiness.

It was about three weeks ago that we received an e-mail outlining the particulars of a wine pairing dinner hosted by Fig. Immediately excited, we read on to discover that Jerome Quiot, the actual winemaker himself would be there, discussing his family's concept of making wine and why this coveted juice is so sought after. The Quiot family owns large parcels of land in three prominent regions of France, and boasts a long tradition of creating amazing blends using the same Old World techniques their ancestors started many years before. To me, this was an event that I wouldn't think of missing. An amazing chef, a famed winemaker, one of my favorite restaurants... how could I pass this up?

Our party of four was greeted warmly with a familiar smile as we were shown to my favorite table that overlooks Biltmore Village. A bubbling glass of Prosecco appeared almost instantly and so began our evening. For starters, Chef Bill Klein addressed the crowd with his eccentric personality that suggested his artistic mind had been going for days. In fact, we were told he had tweaked the menu up until the very last second, with every attention to detail.

Appropriately following the chef was Monsieur Quiot, and just as quickly as one round of applause subsided another started out of respect for our guest. Apologizing for his poor English, and graciously asking for our patience, Jerome began to tell us about his family and our first wine from Southern France where he resides.

We started with a light, crisp, fruit-forward white wine paired with perfectly seared, medium rare Maine Scallops and cous cous with lemon confit, cucumber, and harissa. The scallop was truly exceptional, almost melting in my mouth and its bed of cous cous was quite nice as an accent to both the wine and the scallop. After several moments of silence at our table as we let our taste buds do the talking, I realized that I could have an entire meal of this appetizer and be completely satisfied! The sweetness of the wine balanced out the spicy flavors in the sauce, gently guiding me back to the buttery, moist seafood that was the centerpiece of the plate.

Transitioning to a Rosé wine, Chef Klein selected Alaskan Halibut as the best choice and served it over braised endive with an endive salad. "Endive on endive", he called it and the two preparations worked beautifully together. Fresh chive garnished the fish and added a wonderful herbaceous layer to the soft, sophisticated flavors of the dish. The rosé, made from fruit grown on Monsieur Quiot's wife's property in Provence, was somehow better after taking a bite of halibut, and in turn, the flavors of the food were also enhanced by the wine, bringing both to a whole new level and making this my favorite pairing of the evening!

Approaching the half-way point of the meal, I was hoping for a red wine to compliment our next dish: spiced tuna with spinach, granny smith apple, and sherry vinaigrette, and luckily I didn't even have to ask as my wine was aptly provided. First, I should say that I love tuna, it's a wonderful fish and I eat it often. There are many, many ways one can prepare tuna, and it is served raw or very rare for the most part. I had not however previously experienced a tuna dusted with cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander (as well as other ambiguous spices) and seared as Chef Klein mastered the popular fish in a new way for our third course. As I tasted the apple with the various spices on the tuna I was reminded of flavors I'd enjoyed many times, but this was different. The wine played off the nutmeg and paired surprisingly well with the cinnamon before opening up to envelope the tuna and round out with the sharpness of the apple. With an exceptionally long finish, I found myself enjoying the pairing well after the wine and food were gone, making mental notes to recall when writing today so that I could somehow convey the emotion I felt at that exact moment.

While keeping with the trend of introducing new flavor combinations and broadening our food horizons, we were offered next a roasted leg of lamb with a gourmet twist on "beans and rice" he calls "tacu-tacu", asparagus, morels, and spring onion ragoût. Fresh, seasonal selections are crucial in classical French cuisine, and although Fig's chef certainly takes some creative liberties with his menu, this basic knowledge was obviously not lost along the way, and thankfully so! By pairing each component of the dish so well, and then adding an incredibly well-blended red that brings out all the earthy, savory flavors just begging to be enjoyed, I can’t help but think Chef Klein intended for the lamb to stand out like a main course. In truth, it was the best executed most fulfilling course on the menu. The meat was fantastically rare and after three courses of seafood I was craving something a little more mainland. I cannot say enough about the wine chosen to pair with this dish. From the aromatic nose, the velvety-smooth mouth feel, to the incredibly complex finish this wine was absolutely extraordinary and a perfect representation of what French wine culture is all about.

No dinner, especially one of this magnitude, could be complete without an incredible, soon to be talked-about dessert to end on an even higher note. The first thing that came to my mind when I first read the description of our sweet course was, I'll bet it's going to be a perfect balance of salty and sweet! In a surprise move, a delicate, rich chocolate cake layered with mascarpone was accompanied by delicious apricot and something very unique: bacon brittle! Astonished and excited at the choice of bacon for a dessert pairing, I had waited the entire meal with great anticipation for this dish. As the final wine was poured, I dug into the cake being sure to get a little piece of bacon brittle with my first bite. Absolute genius! The flavors were so surprising and yet so perfect together, just as I had imagined, harnessing both salty and sweet goodness. The cake itself was expertly made and could easily be featured in any gourmet food magazine served exactly the same. The wine pairing for this dish could only be described as phenomenal. Perfectly balancing both faces of the dessert and being an incredibly complex wine by itself, the winemaker and chef certainly saved the best for last.

Wine dinners are always fun, usually educational, and should definitely satisfy your hunger and thirst. But when exceptionally talented people who are really passionate about food and wine get to have this much fun with these kinds of ingredients the whole concept of a wine pairing dinner is revamped. Fig has now raised the bar for every other place in town that attempts such an endeavor. No more can you get by with just a wine shop owner talking about what bottles he wishes to get rid of. No more can you pair ordinary menu items that you’re trying to promote solely to further your own business. No sir, not in this town. Not when there are restaurateurs like Treavis Taylor and chefs like Bill Klein who have contacts with big name winemakers in the south of France. Look out Asheville, these guys really know their stuff and they’re not afraid to show it!

(I should mention that writing two reviews about the same concept so close together is not what I would normally do. In fact, I have recently experienced another amazing restaurant that I feel everyone should hear about, but chose not to write about that experience because I had recently featured its sister concept on the Biltmore Estate. However, this was an exception to the rule, to the original direction I pictured my writing to follow. I hope you agree that it was necessary!)

Sacred Sunday Brunch in The Village

2009-04-28T23:55:00.023-04:00

Ahh, Sunday Brunch: all one has to do is utter those two words and a smile will creep onto my face as my eyes become wispy and nostalgic. With mouth-watering anticipation I mentally calculate how long before the next Sunday morning finds its rightful place on my calendar. For me, brunch is sacred, something that only Sunday can truly claim. I prefer a combination of sun and shade on a private patio with light music playing and a nicely spiced bloody mary for starters. If you're perceptive you will spot me: large dark sunglasses, crisp button-down, jeans, and Hungry.

This Sunday, blessed with perfect blue skies and a cooling breeze, we selected a quiet outdoor dining area annexed by a thick hedge from bumbling Biltmore Village at none other than Corner Kitchen.

This Southern-with-a-Gourmet-Twist concept is already a favorite among locals as well as the many tourists who tend to migrate to The Village around this time each year. It's cozy and comfortable, with a sort of homey feel. In fact, the building itself is an old house, once a dwelling for middle class long before the shops and restaurants appeared. Outside, a tranquil waterfall trickles in the background, enhancing the ambience the mountain breeze and fragrant spring flowers inherently create. Large umbrellas centered at each table produce a sort of roof, all pieced together just so, reluctantly allowing slivers of sunlight here and there to appreciative diners.

As I read and re-read the menu, it became quite obvious that choosing just one of their many delicious dishes was going to be impossible for us. We managed to narrow it down to three and dove into our bloody marys, remarking about their house-made mix as self-proclaimed connoisseurs. The piercing rays of warm morning sun added to the laissez-faire attitude already permeating the patio and before long our delectable brunch arrived on colorful Fiesta plates begging to be devoured.

Despite how anxious I was to try the Chef's twist on the classic Eggs Benedict, we found ourselves quickly cutting into a shared F.S. Carbon Waffle with fresh strawberries, bananas, blueberry compote, and real maple syrup. So fast, that I was truly unable to hold back long enough to even snap a photo of the beautiful presentation! Admittedly, I had to ask about the name of the waffle, as I was completely unfamiliar with "F.S. Carbon". As explained by our knowledgeable server and an incredibly friendly manager, F.S. Carbon is a waffle maker company and they manufacture and sell the gourmet mix as well. Apparently, these waffles are somewhat famous in certain areas of the country. I can see why!

Being an obvious slave to traditional brunch and since the now-eaten waffle had only aroused my appetite, I shifted my attention to my orignal selection: Eggs Bennie. This particular take on a classic dish traded the original English muffin for a homemade biscuit, bringing appropriate southern comfort to my plate. With expertly made, spiced hollandaise, perfectly poached eggs and succulent ham, Eggs Bennie proved to be the best executed, best tasting, most fulfilling Benedict I have tried in the entire city. And, I must say, that is a bold statement.

A brunch could not be complete without a light and fluffy omelet, and this one was no exception to the rule. The Chef made it just the right size, full of red and green bell peppers, onions, and tomatoes plus creamy havarti all paired with roasted potatoes. Considering this is a combination of some of my favorite ingredients of all time, I was quite pleased! Despite my stomach being overly full, I continued to eat until almost every bite was gone, not sure as to how long it would be until I could return and wanting to relish it all.

Among the many shops and few tasty eateries of Biltmore Village there are many places that you may pass by. Perhaps you'll peer into the window of a boutique or glance at the menu posted outside a restaurant before moving on, unsure of its true colors. Believe me when I say: Corner Kitchen is not one of the places you should choose to pass by. There is a reason you'll wait half an hour for a table, and for you own good, remember that your mother taught you to be patient. Yes, there are other places to go. Yes, they may even satisfy your hunger. But they may not leave you telling others about how amazing your experience was for days to come, as I am doing now. I don't know about you, but on Sunday morning around noon, I'll be the one in the sunglasses, waiting, anticipating, proud that I know I'm at the right place.

G.

A Ploughman's Lunch Fit for a King

2009-04-09T15:45:00.005-04:00

A cool and breezy early April afternoon became the backdrop for a venture onto the 8,000-acre private property that creeps into the city limits of Asheville known as the Biltmore Estate. Hungry and excited to try a new menu, we drove through the mammoth gate that guards the entrance, past the now empty corn fields and down the narrow road that snakes and follows the Swannanoa River leading to various sought-after enchantments. Home to the country’s most visited winery and largest privately owned residence, the Biltmore Estate, contrary to local belief, is more than just a tourist trap for out-of-towners and history buffs. Along with horse and biking trails, a three-star hotel, and breathtaking wildlife and scenery are carefully executed and thought out restaurants all designed to keep guests well satisfied and entertained during their stay.

Today’s Destination: The Bistro at The Winery.

Having been to this winery several times we resisted the temptation to indulge in a tasting and quickly found a cozy table, ready as always for a nice lunch. To tempt and please our palettes we decided upon a dish of rich and creamy cheeses, delicious pickled carrots, onions, jalapeno, and cucumber all paired with a nicely spiced sweet chutney and toasted, buttery French bread. Excited and overjoyed at how well each flavor complimented the others, I found myself thinking, if this is a Ploughman’s Lunch, then his mornings must be filled with great anticipation of a well-earned mid-day break and at least some disregard towards breakfast altogether! With each sip of Sauvignon Blanc and subsequent bites of cheese and chutney, I found more depth, more purpose and I began to imagine what the Chef must have been thinking when creating this dish.

In an obvious effort to offer approachable, chef-inspired food, The Bistro has included brick oven gourmet pizzas and, being a sucker for a nice slice of pie, I couldn’t resist! Paying tribute to the Italian heritage of the pizza, mine boasted sopprasetta, pepperoni, Italian sausage and savory pomodoro sauce. The combination of bold meats, rich tomato, and a first crispy, then soft crust certainly did not disappoint!

Without prior intentions to start an Italian cuisine trend at this lunch, Chef Edwin’s Wild Mushroom Ravioli jumped off the menu and found its way to our table as well and luckily for us we still had room left in our bellies. Delicious, black peppercorn cream sauce dressed the plump pasta, perfectly fulfilling my unspoken anticipation of how it should taste. A small arugula salad garnished the dish and the bitterness of the greens cut through the rich sauce adding yet another great layer of flavor.

Now surprisingly spoiled at lunch, and beginning to feel rather full rather quickly, we still could not deny ourselves something sweet to finish our visit to the Estate properly. Although many attractive choices decorated the dessert menu, and I’m confident when I say they would have all been wonderful, a favorite that will never wear out its welcome became our selection: Crème Brulee. A bit of creative freedom is often enjoyed with this dish by many Chefs, but I must say it’s utterly important to never stray so far away that you fail to pay homage to why this is a classic dessert. This particular take, simply garnished with fresh fruit and adorned with a light wafer, showcased smooth, delicate custard flavored with fresh vanilla bean and was absolutely scrumptious down to the very last scrape of the bowl, as I licked my spoon completely clean.

The Biltmore Estate does something that no other destination around can do: transport you into your own private vacation, even if for just a few hours. Quite easily your previous location is forgotten, as if transported into a Narnia-like, not-so-foreign land. Time fades into the background as wine and food become more important and romance often blooms. Right up until the very last moment as you cross in to the hustle and bustle of the city, with new pleasant memories and stories to tell until you return.

Spring Libations

2009-03-22T12:14:00.016-04:00

Now that Spring has officially sprung and warmer temperatures are creeping into our mountain afternoons, cool, refreshing adult beverages are certainly in order!
Ashevillians are most fortunate to have at their disposal an array of patios and open-air venues to enjoy the coming months outdoors.
Here are a few of my favorites along with their signature cocktails in case you'd like to think less and drink more...

For house-infused spirits there's no better spot than The Fro g B ar at the Haywood Park Hotel. Chef and Sommelier Vijay's liquor infusions will certainly satisfy no matter what your taste may be. Try the cool Cucumber, Lime, and Rose water infused gin on the rocks, with a splash of tonic water and a twist of lime-- nothing could be more refreshing!
1 Battery Park Ave
Asheville NC 28801
828.254.9411

Perhaps one of the more unique patios with its modern, shade producing canopies, S ante Wine Bar offers a great experience at their corner of The Grove Arcade. Artisan cheeses, cured meats, house-made hummus, and gourmet chocolates are offered to compliment your wine selection. For warmer weather I opt for Martin Codax Albarino, "a refreshing food friendly wine, showcasing a pale yellowish color with touches of bright gold. It is an aromatic and complex wine that is rich, elegant, dry and crisp. It is full-bodied, with flavors of ripe apples, peach, apricot, melon, grapefruit and lemon zest melded perfectly together with a bright minerality." (wine.com)
One Page Avenue
Asheville, NC 28801
(828) 254-8188

Carmel's Restaurant & Bar is a place to "be seen" with an elegant patio adorned with a high hedge separating it from the street and offering privacy while dining. This AAA Three Diamond concept at The Grove Arcade really does everything right, from food to ambiance to cocktails. Carmel's signature Blueberry Mojito puts an excellent twist on a classic favorite and will certainly quench a mighty thirst on a hot southern day. Enjoy the flavors of fresh mint, ripe blueberries, and tart lime while taking in some great people watching!
1 Page Avenue
Asheville, NC 28801
(828) 252-8730

G.

Begin, Fulfill, Complete - INDEED

2009-03-12T16:18:00.003-04:00

On the very outskirts of Biltmore Village, past the shops and other eateries, you'll find Fig (that is, if you don't blink-- it's quite small!). This bistro seems to fit right in with its surroundings as a modern, fresh concept to visit perhaps after the spa, clothing boutique or salon that share its courtyard. Best described as French-New American fusion, Fig shows Asheville how to properly place modern twists on classically familiar cuisine, tantalizing the palette at the turn of each course.

"To Begin", a terrine of roasted duck and pork, paired expertly as if one could not exist without the other, nor continually dominate or determine the other. Crostini, stone ground mustard, and halved gherkins brought this rustic pate to life, each a component of Heaven. If God made for your picnic a gourmet ham sandwich, this is what it would taste like, with just a sprinkling of sophistication for good measure. Throw in the basket a rich, yet supple tempranillo that balances well between each flavor and you are now spoiled for the rest of the day.

With the exceptional new flavors still lingering on our palettes, we chose our next wine with as much expertise as possible and waited only moments for the next course to arrive.

"To Fulfill", a trout that melted like snow in my mouth, instantly turning from white, flavorful fish to splendor as my senses responded, almost uncontrollably with eyes slightly closed and unfocused, my mind drifting off with a deep, satisfied sigh. Cauliflower and leeks accompanied a velvety-smooth sauce with close to 50 different Mediterranean spices that completed the dish somehow without overpowering the delicately seasoned trout. Branching out on a Cotes du Rhone Blanc I have to admit was a feat of bravery for me, as I generally do not venture far into most whites. (Now a changed man, indeed.)

With expert service and timing our experience was once again taken to another level by keeping with the trend of each course complimenting then trumping its predecessor.

"To Complete", black currant, cinnamon, nutmeg, custard flavored bread pudding drizzled appropriately with caramel sauce and creme anglaise. A dessert fit for anyone with an appetite and amazingly well-balanced without being overly rich and sweet. Grand Marnier brought out notes of vanilla and spice and we found ourselves scraping every last bit off of our plates, grinning like children on Christmas morning.

Taking in the ambiance and feel of Fig is a wonderful reminder of how far Asheville has come with its many restaurants. Instead of being whisked away to another country, or feeling as though you have travelled back in time, this is a chic, present, simply clean concept that brings the 21st Century to our small city.

G.

To Drink or Not to Drink: That is the Question!

2009-03-01T10:35:00.002-05:00

For many, eating out is a necessity, something done simply to satisfy their hunger and alleviate the task of actually cooking and cleaning at home. However, for others it's exciting to experience different concepts and try new things and so as often as they can they find themselves searching for their next place to dine.

Regardless of why or how often someone goes out, many seem to find a decent wine list a bit daunting and tend to stick by the more familiar labels such as Cabernet, Chardonnay, or Merlot. Furthermore, there are usually a few of what I like to call "Grocery Store Wines" mixed into even the most pretentious list. These wines, albeit good from time to time, are the ones that are common enough to find on an ordinary grocery store shelf. Non-savvy wine drinkers often seem to stick to the labels they recognize because they are "safe". The downfall to this, of course, is the palette is not allowed to develop and experience what wine is really all about!

I would like to offer a few points to help those of you who are unsure of your next wine selection to a better enjoyment of your meal:

- Old-school wine pairing suggestions like "Red wine with meat, white with fish" are passe. A better approach would be to pair a sweeter wine with a spicier or more flavorful dish and a dryer, heavier wine with a sugary, rich dessert. Keep in mind as well that too bold of a wine may over-power a lightly flavored dish.

- Being a "Cabernet Man" is fine, but branch out from time to time! If you like Cabernet, it probably means you like a bigger, bolder, dry wine. So look for Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, or ask your server or bartender to recommend something comparable.

- There are no secrets to knowing if a wine is good or not. When you try it for the first time, if it tastes good to you, IT IS GOOD! The whole point of drinking wine is to enjoy it, so if you like the way it tastes then you got the point. A well-made wine, after each sip, should leave you wanting more excited to see how it will taste with your next bite of food.

- Many wines have difficult names to pronounce, often in foreign languages. This does not necessarily mean they are better than others. However, if you want to try one of them, try it! Don't be embarrassed to ask how to pronounce them, you aren't the only one who's asked, trust me.

- A good approach, if you seriously haven't a clue where to start with wine, is to ask your server or bartender to recommend their favorite from the list. Tell them what you're planning on eating and see if they can offer a good pairing for you. Most can handle this task, but if for some reason the wine they choose is way off, don't be afraid to ask for something else. You're the guest, after all!

G.

Cultivation of Culture

2009-02-28T11:47:00.001-05:00

As much as I would love to write about a new concept every week (or even everyday for that matter!) I have found myself at this point in my life without the necessary funds to indulge in such an endeavor. Unfortunate for all, I know.

However, in an effort to keep writing and keep your attention as readers, I have decided to add short educational pieces in between that will hopefully enhance your knowledge and make you more culinary and wine savvy. In turn, your experiences at restaurants should also be heightened as you will soon be more confident in your wine selections, more likely to try the dish you previously could not pronounce, and so on.

Many thanks to the kind and helpful comments posted on my first article, Valentine's Dinner on the French Countryside. I appreciate you all!

G.

Valentine's Dinner on the French Countryside

2009-02-18T11:56:00.000-05:00

Bouchon, literally translated from French to English can mean "cork", which I thought appropriate for a small restaurant with an excellent French wine selection. Perhaps even more befitting, Bouchon can also mean "bistro" in certain dialects and with the melding of those two concepts you arrive at one very ambrosial dining experience.

An evening at Bouchon is like a late lunch or dinner at an off-the-beaten path village in French wine country. Perhaps familiar but still exciting, the ambiance beckons to you with every delicate sip of Beaujolais, each warm slice of Brie Encroute, the intoxicating aroma of cognac and Steak Au Poivre.

As we waited patiently for our table, enjoying a glass of wine, something incredible happened: I did not feel as though I was in downtown Asheville! Instead, I felt as though on a tour of France, and promised myself that someday I would experience it in all its natural glory, every region, every dish that I could possibly devour, as much wine as I could humanly drink.

We were taken to a cozy, romantic table for two simply adorned with a single candle near an archway that served as a liaison from kitchen to table. Warm, thinly sliced bread accompanied a bottle of Beaujolais and before we could finish the first glass we were melting creamy cheese from the Alps over slices of tart apples and roasted fingerling potatoes enjoying the contrasts and remarking on how the apple brought out the fruit of the wine.

The conversation at this point had shifted from dreaming of a European vacation to sharing how passionate love has become between us and the realness of how life prepares you for each step ahead as if you couldn't appreciate anything any other way. As tears crept into our collective eyes, entrees arrived and even more senses were aptly overwhelmed as our attention was directed to the main course of the evening.

Across the table from me was half of a roasted chicken, dusted with thyme, steam rising, each bite to be relished until the last. I had chosen beef shoulder tenderloin with cognac and peppercorn cream sauce and as I cut into the flavorful beef I began to eat first with my eyes, then my nose, and finally enjoying each piece with my taste buds at a standing ovation. Perfectly crispy, herb-seasoned pomme frites and soft herico verts balanced each entree with expertise, a simple yet superb choice.

The Beaujolais, to my sweet surprise had remarkably lasted the entire meal, paired well with each bite and even stood up to the rich cognac cream sauce. As our flight of creme brulee arrived, garnished with light wafers and powdered sugar, our appetites were immediately rekindled with excitement and oohs and ahhs. I opted for my favorite dessert cognac, Grand Marnier, and dug into each individual custard remarking on how smooth it was, and how the sugar had caramelized just right to add the sought-after crunch making the classic dessert superlative.

An experience at Bouchon wouldn't be complete without a table visit from Michel, the Frenchman who owns and often cooks at the small, downtown jewel. Warm and kind, with crow's feet accompanying his father-like eyes, Michel thanked us for dining and welcomed us back anytime for another trip into the French countryside via Lexington Avenue.

G.